Layering in Transitional Seasons (Even When It’s Hot!)

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Most of us will have experienced some kind of a transitional season, and such periods call for a transition in wardrobe as well. Today, we’ll discuss how to ensure comfort while looking your best in those variable temperatures, through layering the right items!

Autumn and spring seasons are a favorite time of year for many people. Springtime sees the world warming up after a season of very cold temperatures in winter, and autumn brings rich golden colors and a bit of a respite from those hot temperatures of summer.

Sven Raphael Schneider in a sweater during Autumn
Sven Raphael Schneider in a sweater during Autumn

As wonderful as these seasons are, there’s no denying that they can also make it a bit tricky to pull together an outfit that helps you feel stylish and still comfortable. Something that is flexible enough to adapt as temperatures change.

The Challenge of Dressing In Transitional Seasons

The biggest challenge with transitional seasons is the unpredictable weather. That being said, one of the great things about summer and winter is that the weather makes it a little bit easier to dress for.

We naturally expect summer to be warm and winter to be cold. So, summer dressing will usually consist of light, cool outfits. And for winter, it’s usually a case of heavier outfits to keep you warm.

The stable warmth of the summer is easier to dress for than variable temperatures of spring.
The stable warmth of the summer is easier to dress for than variable temperatures of spring.

When the seasons are transitioning and it’s neither summer nor winter, it can be a challenge to figure out how to dress for the day.

During a transitional season, most of us can experience temperatures ranging from 45 degrees to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (7 to 21 degrees Celsius). Also, rainfall might be expected in transitional seasons, and it helps to have rain gear handy.

A classic trench coat is timeless
A classic trench coat is a timeless and functional choice

We can’t run home and change three times a day; that’s just impractical. But we still want outfits that are flexible enough to adapt to the different weather trends that we might be facing throughout the day.

Essential Garments for Transitional Seasons

Before we take a look at how to put outfits together, let’s first take a moment to look at some individual items and what makes them great for transitional seasons.

Transitional season menswear prepares you for any temperatures of the day.
Transitional season menswear prepares you for any temperatures of the day.

1. Lightweight Outerwear

Let’s first start off with lightweight outerwear. A transitional dressing is a great time to enjoy lightweight outdoor options.

Trench Coat

The iconic trench coat has been worn for decades as a great means of protection against the elements and this is the perfect choice to wear over a suit in transitional periods. The double-breasted military inspiration of this coat makes it pair wonderfully with formal attire.

Cooler weather formal attire with french coat and umbrella
Cooler weather formal attire with french coat and umbrella

Although, the trench coat can also be worn with more casual ensembles just as well. A trench coat is perfect for transitional dressing as it’s traditionally made with cotton gabardine. This is much lighter than the heavier woolen coats made for winter.

Trench Coat Liners
Trench Coat Liner

It’s also possible to find trench coat liners (a removable layer that’s going to provide extra warmth), and we think you’ll find that that’s incredibly useful in the middle of a temperature change.

Harrington Jacket

A Harrington jacket is a great choice for more casual outfits. Rising to popularity in the 1950s and ’60s, the Harrington jacket was originally invented to be worn on the golf course as a casual outerwear piece. The design is clean and simple, making it easy to wear for most men.

Its features include angled pockets at the hips, a zipper that goes to the neck, and either elasticated cuffs or buttons close to the wrist. This helps keep the wind out.

Raphael wearing a green G9 Harrington Jacket Baracuta, white chinos, and sunglasses.
Raphael wearing a G9 Harrington Jacket Baracuta

You may also see a tall collar that buttons at the neck, which is again helpful in keeping out the wind. Most models feature an elasticated waist, but you can also find some models that have a straight hem at the bottom of the jacket.

Baracuta is one of the oldest companies still producing Harrington jackets. The famous G9 model has been spotted on many classic stars like Elvis Presley, Steve McQueen, and James Dean.

Leather Jackets

Transitional seasons are also a great time to enjoy leather jackets. Much like the Harrington jacket, leather jackets offer a more casual solution to transitional dressing.

Typically, leather jackets are designed to protect you from the elements and they have a rich history of being worn by motorcycle riders, such as the famous Trialmaster model from Belstaff. Some leather jackets, like the Trialmaster are treated to be water-resistant.

Leather jackets were traditionally worn by motorcycle riders for protection from the elements.
Leather jackets were traditionally worn by motorcycle riders for protection from the elements. [Image credit: The Wild One – Columbia Pictures].

Leather isn’t as light as waxed cotton, but isn’t as heavy as thick wool. This makes it an excellent contender for transitional wear as a medium-weight jacket.

If you choose something like the Trialmaster, you get a timeless style with extra added practicality. After all, a jacket in this style is designed to be used.

Belstaff Trialmaster Panther Jacket
Belstaff Trialmaster Panther Jacket

With a generous length to keep up the cold and the rain, a belted waist to ensure the jacket stays closed, and multiple pockets for your everyday essentials, these make a leather jacket a great choice for transitional wear.

2. Half-lined or Unlined Jackets (Sport Coats & Blazers)

Gaining in popularity in recent years, the half-lined or unlined jacket has become a welcome addition to transitional wear.

A half-lined jacket refers to a jacket that has lining sewn into the sleeves, on the sides of the inside of the chest, across the shoulders, and inside the upper back area of the jacket. Meanwhile, an unlined jacket will only have lining sewn into the sleeves of the jacket. 

Jacket Linings [Original Image Courtesy: Beckett & Robb]
Jacket Linings [Original Image Courtesy: Beckett & Robb]

Although you may be able to find completely unlined suit jackets, it makes it very difficult to put the jackets on and to take them off when there is no lining on the inside. Therefore, the sleeve lining is more necessary to make the jacket more user-friendly.

Wearing a jacket with very little internal lining makes for a much more comfortable and cooler wearing experience. This is because the jacket won’t be as heavy as one that has extra fabric in the lining and the jacket will breathe better helping you to better regulate your temperature.

Unstructured Neapolitan Tailoring
Unstructured Neapolitan Tailoring

It is still possible for an unlined jacket to have some structure in the chest and shoulders. However, this is usually quite light. Otherwise, it would negate the point of having less weight inside the jacket.

Plus, a half or unlined jacket lends itself to a more relaxed approach when it comes to tailoring. This makes an unstructured jacket easier to combine with other elements within your wardrobe. Think of the stylish Neapolitan tailors who prefer an unstructured look.

3. Overshirts or Shackets

An overshirt or a shacket is a more casual way to put together a transitional outfit and it’s a nice alternative to a more traditional sport coat. The term “shacket” comes from the shortening of “shirt jacket,” which makes sense as the garment is a hybrid of a dress shirt and a jacket. 

The overall structure is similar to that of a shirt. It buttons all the way to the neck, usually a functioning button at the cuff, and it usually will have some kind of a pointed collar. What makes it different from a dress shirt is the number of functional pockets featured throughout. 

Overshirts or Shackets are made of hard-wearing fabrics.
Overshirts or Shackets are made of hard-wearing fabrics.

Also, they’re made from harder-wearing fabrics than that of a traditional dress shirt. These include heavy cottons, linens, flannels, and corduroys. The style originates from practical workwear, but in recent years, it has been updated and refined into a sartorial garment.

It works as a great alternative to an odd jacket or sport coat, and the benefit of an overshirt is that it looks better with casual wear than an odd jacket or sport coat would. Although we love them, a suit jacket does not go with everything.

An overshirt can be worn unbuttons to suit warmer weathers.
An overshirt can be worn unbuttons to suit warmer weathers.

It can also be worn open or closed depending on the temperature unlike a suit jacket or sport coat, which may have more refined rules as to when it can and cannot be buttoned, and it’s unique as it acts as a top layer on warmer days. 

An overshirt is a great option for transitional dressing as it’s a lightweight option, which is a nice alternative to an odd jacket. You can also put on a heavier coat on top of the overshirt on a colder day. There aren’t many garments out there that are quite as versatile as that.

On a colder day, an overshirt can be layered with an overcoat.
On a colder day, an overshirt can be layered with an overcoat.

4. Cotton and Linen Knitwear

Transitional seasons may have some cold temperatures as well, and knitwear is a no-brainer when it comes to adding a layer of warmth to your outfit. But, what do you do when you don’t need the full warmth of that heavy lambswool or cashmere winter sweater?

This is where knitwear, spun from cotton or linen or a combination of both, will add a great layer to your transitional outfits. Cotton and linen are natural fibers.

Knitwear is essential for variable weathers.
Knitwear is essential for variable weather. Knit Tie in Solid Pale Yellow Silk from Fort Belvedere

Both are known for their ability to breathe very well, and as we’ve already discussed earlier today, a garment’s ability to breathe well will help you better regulate your own temperature, which is exactly what you’re looking for when dressing for transitional seasons. 

Linen typically has a distinctive texture and looser weave when woven into sweaters. This makes it wonderful for indulging in scorpacciata or savoring the seasonality of clothing.

Linen Cotton Blend Sweater Polo Ralph Lauren
A sweater in blended cotton and linen from Polo Ralph Lauren

Knitwear crafted from cotton is able to replicate the look of your favorite woolly winter sweaters without the extra warmth. For example, the traditional cricket or tennis sweaters are an icon of knitwear. Transitional seasons are the perfect opportunity to wear this style of sweater.

5. Merino Wool Knitwear

Merino wool is a popular choice for knitwear. In fact, many wear it year-round except for those very hot summer days.

It’s a wool that is very fine and soft, kind of like cashmere, but it has a unique sheen to it, which makes it pair very well with tailoring, and it can also dress up casualwear very nicely, too.

One of the earliest depictions of a merino sheep by the spanish artist Murillo in 1650
One of the earliest depictions of a merino sheep by the Spanish artist Murillo in 1650

When woven into a garment, the wool is usually thinner than in a cashmere or lambswool alternative. This is especially useful when layering as it doesn’t add as much bulk to an outfit as other knitwear might do.

For instance, the cotton cricket sweater can be a great choice for transitional knitwear, but it’s going to be quite bulky under tailoring such as a sport coat.

Uniqlo extra fine merino turtleneck
Uniqlo extra fine merino turtleneck

This is where Merino knitwear really shines through as you can add it underneath the sport coat without the added extra bulk, and without looking like Mr. Stay Puft in a suit.

Another desirable trait of Merino is its natural elasticity. This means it will hold its shape very well and, most importantly, for transitional dressing, it breathes well, too.

6. Suede Footwear

A pair of suede shoes or even a smart boot, like a chukka or a Chelsea boot, will be a great alternative to a transitional outfit. Contrary to popular belief, suede is actually a very resilient material to have in unpredictable weather.

suede brown chelsea boots and Shadow Stripe Socks Dark Brown and Beige
Suede brown Chelsea boots and Shadow Stripe Socks Dark Brown and Beige

Unlike calf leather, suede is actually less likely to show salt stains or watermarks after being subjected to the elements, and it also tends to dry more evenly than calf leather. So, it is also more easily treated with waterproofing protector sprays.

Although it’ll make your suede shoes waterproof, it will make them more resilient than, say, calf leather in the event of an odd rain shower.

A Goodyear-welted Chukka Boot
A Goodyear-Welted Chukka Boot

If your shoes have a Goodyear welt, they have a greater level of water resistance, too. You can further the waterproofing qualities by looking for shoes with full rubber soles or rubber inserts to the soles as well. This will help with not only waterproofing qualities but also grip.

7. Mix-and-Match Fabrics

This last item isn’t one type of garment, but rather a tip for transitional dressing. Spezzato is the term used to describe the breaking down of a suit to create a new look. Here you can combine pieces of heavier and lighter suits to better regulate your temperature.

The spezzato technique mixes different fabrics in an outfit.
The spezzato technique mixes different fabrics in an outfit. White Linen Pocket Square with Handrolled Edges made in Italy from Fort Belvedere

Let’s take the famous country outfit James Bond wears in Goldfinger as an example. Here we can see a barleycorn, tweed hacking jacket. These are then paired with cavalry twill trousers and finished off with suede shoes. He’s also wearing a tobacco brown knit tie.

Not only is this a nice tone-on-tone outfit that is great for either spring or autumn, but it’s also perfect for traditional dressing. The jacket is a mid to heavyweight tweed, whereas the trousers are mid to lightweight.

James Bond Tweed Outfit in Goldfinger
James Bond Tweed Outfit in Goldfinger [Image credit: United Artists].

This means that Bond’s temperature will better be regulated as it’s not a head-to-toe ensemble and the same cloth. If a pair of tweed trousers were worn with a tweed jacket, it would probably be too warm.

And as we’ve previously explored, the suede shoes would be a great choice for any possible rainfall that might come. The scene is set in England after all.

Spezzato with vest and pants
Spezzato achieved with matching vest and trousers and a different jacket

You can see how useful the Spezzato technique is when it comes to transitional outfits.

Depending on where you feel the warmth of the cold, you can adjust what you’re wearing accordingly, and it’s theoretically one of the cheaper options as you won’t need to buy anything new to pull this off. It’s all about combining pieces from your existing wardrobe.

Layering Garments in Your Outfits

Formal Attire – Warmer Weather

In warmer weather, you could be wearing a lightweight suit or an unlined jacket and lightweight trousers. You can then add in a dress shirt and a knit tie and, perhaps, a Merino cardigan or a knitted waistcoat, or even a sweater vest. You can also add suede shoes or even loafers.

This warm-weather outfit features an orange knit tie from Fort Belvedere
This warm-weather outfit features an orange knit tie from Fort Belvedere

Formal Attire – Cooler Weather

In cooler weather, you can start off with a mid-weight jacket and lightweight trousers or vice versa. Next, you can add in a dress shirt a grenadine or a shantung tie, suede shoes, perhaps a derby or even an Oxford.

Shantung Striped Green, Purple and Cream Silk Tie and Dark Bronze Madder Silk Pocket Square with Diamond Motif and Paisley from Fort Belvedere.
Shantung Striped Green, Purple and Cream Silk Tie and Dark Bronze Madder Silk Pocket Square with Diamond Motif and Paisley from Fort Belvedere.
Shantung Striped Green, Purple and Cream Silk Tie - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Shantung Striped Green, Purple and Cream Silk Tie – Fort Belvedere

Dark Bronze Madder Silk Pocket Square with Diamond Motif and Paisley- Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Dark Bronze Madder Silk Pocket Square with Diamond Motif and Paisley- Fort Belvedere

Maybe add in a lightweight scarf and, if it’s possibly raining that day, don’t forget your umbrella and, perhaps, a trench coat.

Business Casual Attire – Warmer Weather

In warmer weather, you can always add in chinos and, of course, a dress shirt. Maybe even a linen dress shirt if it’s very hot. A merino cardigan or sweater and a pair of loafers or if we prefer, maybe even a pair of lace-up dress shoes.

Nantucket Red chinos with blue and white sport coat, linen pocket square and red and blue tie
Raphael wearing a Nantucket Red chinos with blue and white sport coat, linen pocket square and red and blue tie

Business Casual Attire – Cooler Weather

In cooler weather, you can also wear a mid to lightweight jacket, pair of chinos, an OCBD shirt, Merino or cotton knitwear sweater, and, if it’s very cool, perhaps a lightweight scarf, Oxfords, derbies, or even a pair of monk straps will look quite nice.

OCBD collar shirt with a green tennis sweater and a houndstooth tie
OCBD collar shirt with a green tennis sweater and a houndstooth tie from Fort Belevedere

And if it’s raining, again, don’t forget your umbrella or trench coat.

Casual Attire – Warmer Weather

In warmer weather, you could always opt for a plain t-shirt or polo shirt, an overshirt or a shacket, denim jeans, boat shoes, or even a pair of loafers. 

You can layer a t-shirt and an overshirt for warmer weather casualwear.
You can layer a t-shirt and an overshirt for warmer weather casualwear.

Casual Attire – Cooler Weather

In cooler weather, don’t forget your overshirt or shacket over a Harrington or leather jacket. Maybe even a cotton wax jacket, Merino, or cotton knitwear with a plain t-shirt or even a polo underneath.

You can also layer your clothes in the cold months like this lightweight sweater paired with a waxed cotton jacket.
You can layer your clothes in the cold months like this lightweight sweater paired with a waxed cotton jacket and denim jeans.

Denim jeans, maybe a pair of Chelsea boots, and this time, what we can even add instead of a trench coat would be a leather jacket.

Outfit Rundown

Today, I’m wearing a light red and white pinstripe sport shirt that I got from Brooks Brothers a long time ago with a pair of blue stretch slim chinos– pretty comfortable, so I can wear them all day.

And finishing off the look with my Fort Belvedere socks
and a pair of brown lace-up dress shoes. Check out the Fort Belvedere Shop for socks like these.

Dark Brown Two Tone Solid Oxford Socks Fil d'Ecosse Cotton - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Dark Brown Two Tone Solid Oxford Socks Fil d'Ecosse Cotton – Fort Belvedere

Mid Brown Shoelaces Round - Waxed Cotton Dress Shoe Laces Luxury by Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Mid Brown Shoelaces Round – Waxed Cotton Dress Shoe Laces Luxury by Fort Belvedere

What’s your favorite look for transitional seasons? Let us know how you stay stylish and comfortable in unpredictable temperatures!

Reader Comments

  1. You forgot to mention quarter-lined jackets! I find them to be a fantastic option. Lined in the sleeves and a small patch at the upper back. Fantastic in linen and seersucker, and I even had a lovely Harris tweed one done that way!

    And yes to the shacket. Twice. I have a few, and they are great for around-the-house stuff like leaf-raking and snow-shoveling, and equally at home for trips to the lumberyard/nursery/quarry type places.

    1. Hopefully the video and supporting images in the article help illustrate the concept of “less lining in your jacket”, but I agree that a quarter-lined jacket is a great option!

  2. GG heroes,
    I live in Austin, Texas, where we have two season: summer and August. I have a closet full of dark, heavy wool suits, including tuxedos and three piece suits, that almost never get to wear because of the heat. It can be January, and, sometimes, it will still get up to 80 or even 90 degrees. So, what I have done is started to rebuild my wardrobe, with linen suits, seersucker, and a khaki suit. For formal occasions, I will often substitute my usual tuxedo jacket with a white dinner jacket and either replace the vest with a cummerbund or ditch both in favor of a double-breasted white jacket.
    So, my question to you is this: Theoretically speaking, how would you “summerize” a stroller suit or a morning suit? Would something like that be possible?
    Love your channel!
    –Phil

    1. I’ll let the fine gents of GG “summerize” a stroller suit, but I envy Texas having two seasons. We have 12 seasons in Missouri:Winter, Fool’s Spring, Second Winter, Spring of Deception, Third Winter, The Pollening, Actual Spring, Summer, Hell’s Front Porch, False Fall, Second Summer, and Actual Fall.

      So yeah, our entire wardrobe is transitional season up here.

    2. Hi Phil, thanks for commenting. Theoretically, the first place to start would be in your fabric choices. If you choose lightweight fabrics designed for hotter climates, then your stroller or morning suit will be a comfortable choice for those high temperatures. Check out our guide on summer fabrics which are great for when the temperature rises.

      1. I wonder if one could get morning/stroller attire made in something like fresco or a mohair blend with skeleton lining? I doubt linen or linen blend would have the proper drape for something like this, and seersucker would probably not jive.

        1. Absolutely. Fresco, mohair, and other lighter-weight wools will always maintain a more structured look. Of course, the weave of the fabric will assist in how well the garment breathes, too. In the UK, there’s a clothing brand called Oliver Brown – they seem to make morning coats in both mohair and linen, as well as some unlined models. I have no experience of these myself, but they seem to be a good starting point for ready-to-wear clothing.

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